ITALY (AND ESPECIALLY LUCCA) TEACHES YOU HOW TO LIVE

A MONTH IN LUCCA is our yearly reminder about what is important in life. We are so lucky to be able to do it as a family. We are reminded of the Italian way: Don’t sweat the small stuff, keep life simple, do a few things really well (fresh, simple ingredients with hundreds of years of trial and error), working with the best things on your doorstep (slightly easier in Tuscany with such amazing fresh seasonal produce, sunshine and beautiful countryside)! Above all, stopping to enjoy things. Appreciating the beauty of Tuscany. Getting into the Italian way of life - from sprezzatura and passeggiata, to sunshine and amazing food & wine…most importantly, always best experienced in good company…

Each year we like to get out and about and Lucca is the perfect sized city to do so. Big enough to provide loads of variety, small enough to know of your way around and bump into all the characters of local characters and acquaintances going about their day to day. We like to see what’s changed (this year was even more interesting as, due to lockdown, we couldn’t get over for the last summer so we hadn’t been back ‘inside the walls’ of the city for two years). Not much had changed which is part of the ‘way’ of this super conservative city… there is an element of tall poppy syndrome. There was a sense the tourists were starting to come back but the locals were hopeful more well heeled brits and yanks were coming soon. It shows despite very little business for most since the start of the pandemic, the hospitality businesses dont operate wildly out of budget and over extend themselves during the best of times and so can reign it in and hunker down during the worst of times. Maybe again there is a learning about keeping it simple, staying in lane and dont go beyond what’s needed. Why change winning formulas?

SO HERE’S OUR BEST OF LUCCA, OUR LUCCA CURATED…

We’ve done it via a family discussion and given awards…. If you took this advice and, like we always try to do- avoid the ‘tourist trappos’ and listen to where the locals go... you’d have an amazing Lucca experience (plus selfishly, this acts a reminder/ checklist for us for next year of all the things we loved and all that we didn’t get a chance to try in 2021)….

WE HOPE YOU ENJOY!
Simon, Claire, Ellis & Bailey. Plus Papa Geoff (as well as my sister Lucy, Luca and Beau)

Let’s start with THE BEST 22 EUROS ONE CAN SPEND IN LUCCA… CAFE DES ARTS on Piazza San Giusto. A two-course and glass of wine set meal of verdure perfectly al dente with the best olive oil: Podere Pellicciano. Then the obscenely good pici truffle pasta. Served with a glass of Bolgheri wine. We can’t think of anything better than this…

THE BEST BREAKFAST:

CAFE MANON LESCAUT in Piazza Cittadella. Pancakes, fruit yoghurt bowls, crispy bacon, avocado on toast. Besso and his wife are legends and we like to support their venture. The best menu and execution plus Costadoro Coffee. The kids scoot around the Puccini statue in the square whilst we try to relax!

THE BEST LUNCH:

For adults DA CIACCO on Piazza Napoleone. Corn paninis that are soft in the middle and the perfect crunch. We know of no other place that has such style paninis. Most Italian places serve bread like cardboard. The combos of the fillings are to die for (they know their hams, cheese, fillings combos). This place has a great wine list also. Add a great spot. These guys know how to curate!…

For the kids MADAME BUTTERFLY CAFE - back on Piazza Cittadella square. Alessia the cafe owner has children the same age as ours so it’s great to see them all grow up and the yearly comparison on how much they’ve grown is fun. Fast service and kitchen. Very good tortelli lucchese (the local classic) and simple quick pizzas. Plus, spaghetti pomodoro for the kids to make a mess… you can’t go wrong. Best square in Lucca (we are biased as Papa Geoff lived overlooking the square for 8 years so its the most familiar to us.)

THE BEST APERITIVO:

For spritz MADAME BUTTERFLY or DES ARTS are good. Don’t trust anyone that doesn’t serve it in a large wine glass with loads of ice. For a cold beer LA TANA DEL BOIA aka ‘Hangman‘ on Piazza San Michele. Time it right to get a seat outside for the last bit of sunshine in the square. Plus, good cheese and hams for Aperitivo. Also, this is a good later night venue post dinner. If feeling adventurous they do a raw sausage panini, very strong flavours…

THE BEST FOR A PIT STOP:

ENOTECA VANNI for a glass of local Vermentino or Vernacchia di San Gimignano whites. A bit stingy on the nibbles though! Always nice to go down to the famous cellar to see the 100,000 bottles of wine collected over decades of being in the know in the Italian wine scene. Some classic Brunellos, Chianti Classicos, Barbarescos and of course Bolgheris.

THE BEST PLACES WE USUALLY GO BUT DIDNT GET A CHANCE TO IN 2021:

1) TURANDOT CAFE- on Piazza San Michele to watch the world go by. See our friend Eddie putting the chairs out each morning as a favour to the cafe before it opens

2) LA TAMBELLINI- outside the walls but lovely garden for lunch. Classic local food and wine.

3) CANULEIA - beautiful garden out the back and lovely food for a date night.

4) OSTERIA DA PASQUALINO GUBITOSA - Pasquali, the owner is a true local- generous with the fine wine, always great to chat to him about Bolgheri.

THE BEST NEW FOOD PLACE:

Sushi seems to be catching on a bit more with the locals. THE SUSHI EXPERIENCE RISTORANTE CAFFE DELLA MURA is a large café no one has been able to make work up on the walls yet such a great location. It doesn’t look that appealing from the outside but lots of space in the gardens. The food there definitely worth the visit. E.g. sushi with the odd Italian twist like sushi rolls with crumbled pistachio, miso passion fruit sauce, truffle sushi etc. Especially good when you want a break from the traditional Italian cuisine for a night.

THE BEST ICE CREAM:

GELATI DI PIERO’S inside the walls hands down. Outside the walls BONTA YOGURT E GELATO then even further out: GELATERIA SAURO at Ponte a Moriano. Worth the trek out to see the gelateria with views of the bridge overlooking the Serchio river.

THE BEST PLACE FOR KIDS:

RISTORANTE LA CORTE near Nozzano Castello. 15 mins outside Lucca. Large friendly locals only restaurant with good outdoor play and loads of fun (giant bouncy slide, swings etc) for the kids to securely play whilst you eat!

THE BEST BEACH SPOT:

MARINA DI VECCHIANO is the best municipal beach as no commercial developments or major roads to the beach. Best for a beach club is BAGNO DAISY’S at Marina di Pietrasanta

THE BEST ROAD TRIP OUT OF LUCCA:

Montecatini Terme up the fun funicular ride. Drink at any of the places on the square and then dinner at CAFE GIUSTI

THE BEST RED WINE:

1) SUPER TUSCAN: RIVERBERO for value or ARNIONE 2014/or 2015 if you can find it anywhere. 2015 vintage drinking well at the moment for local and Bolgheri wine

2) EXPENSIVE: local biodynamic and stunning winery: TENUTA DI VALGIANO

3) MEDIUM: BUONAMICO ETTICA BLU label

4) VALUE: TENUTA LENZINI CASA E CHIESA

5) LOCAL recommended we want to try next time: ARCIPRESSI FABBRICA DI SAN MARTINO wine

THE BEST FOR A DATE NIGHT DRINK:

The newly refurbed Lucca classic HOTEL UNIVERSO. A very elaborate coffee maker on the bar. Good Spritz. Look up Chet Baker, jazz, Lucca prison to hear about some cool stories about room 15 at the hotel.

THE BEST SCENIC DRIVE:

Mid-level mountain route along Matraia, starting at Elisa Bonaparte’s Villa Reale and heading up the mountain. Up along the road mid-way up with views back down to Lucca. All the way along across to San Gennaro. Quick stop at TENUTA DI VALGIANO and FATTORIA MANSI BERNADINI (where we got married) along the way. And if in need of a drink whilst on the drive then TENUTA SAN PIETRO is a bit further up and has a nice bar / restaurant looking down onto the Valgiano vines and winery.

THE BEST FOR A BIG FAMILY LUNCH OR DINNER:

IL GROTTO in the amphitheatre so kids can play in the middle. Bit touristy but it is dinner in a Roman amphitheatre…!

BEST FOR A WEEK OF CHILLING:

Poolside at VILLA IL TIGLIO hosted by Rien & Yvonne… great hospitality, pool, breakfasts and location.

THE PLACES WE NEED TO VISIT NEXT TIME:

1) VALPORE - restaurant that’s a destination drive out

2) LA DARSENA - seafood restaurant in Viareggio as recommended by local legend artist Giampero Garzella

3) Second recommendation from Giampiero: RESTAURANT GIGLIO - a one Michelin star dinner next door to the Lucca Teatro.

4) FELICE PIZZERIA - outside the walls on via Castruccio Buonamici always looks busy with locals

5) BUTTERFLY RESTAURANT - in Marlia. Held a Michelin star since 2008

6) PIZZA SUD -  We might have been there before but changed ownership and the photos of the pizzas look good

7) MAGELLANO - Cosy looking cocktail bar haven’t frequented yet

8) AL VECCHIO METATO - on via Valgiano up in the hills. Small, looks authentic rustic Italian.

9) OSTERIA LE TERME - in Massarosa (as recommended by Laura Di Collobiano of Tenuta Di Valgiano

THE BEST ‘CAN’T GO WRONG FUN’:

hiring an electric powered 8-person bike and riding the walls (plus we went off piste into the town to cause havoc with those wandering down the Via Fillungo- the main passeggiata thoroughfare)

THE BEST ‘YOU WON’T REGRET’:

A lap of the walls. Walking looking into the city or out to the surrounding hills. It’s never boring or a chore. Or if running the walls (it’s almost 5km round so is a good size run - or laps…) just make sure before 10am or in the evening as gets too hot in the midday sun

THE BEST PIZZA:

1) FOR A SLICE: DANTE & GENTUCCA (new addition to Lucca) or Da Felice (old school classic been around for years in Lucca)

2) WHOLE PIZZA: FUORI DI PIAZZA PIZZA on Piazza Napoleone with a Peroni Rosso beer

THE BEST PLACE FOR PEACE & QUIET:

Inside the courtyard of PALAZZO DUCALE DI LUCCA. A beautiful courtyard full of trees, a calming space.

…… So that’s a wrap for our 2021 August Lucca trip. Lucca once again teaching us how to enjoy life once again…